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We have included this section of frequently asked questions so that you can gain a
better understanding of how we can help you and feral cats.
Can I make an appointment for my pet or personal cat to be
spayed/neutered through
Feral Cat FOCUS?
No, this program is only for feral, free roaming, or barn cats. Pet or personal cats
or stray cats that have been living in your house do not qualify. There are other
community resources for these cats. You can call your local veterinary office or
Operation PETS: The Spay/Neuter Clinic of WNY (716)783-8998 for an
appointment to have the cat examined and spayed/neutered. You must qualify as
low income to have the cat spayed/neutered at Operation PETS.
Can you come out and trap the cats that are on my property?
loan humane traps and arrange for veterinarians to spay/neuter feral cats. We do
not trap feral cats nor are we an animal shelter or rescue organization.
Can I just bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic without an appointment?
No. An appointment must be made at a spay/neuter clinic prior to the cat arriving
for surgery.
Can I bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic in a kennel or a crate instead
of a humane trap?
Absolutely NOT! All free roaming cats presented to a spay/neuter clinic MUST
arrive in a properly secured humane trap – this is for the safety of the caregiver
and the staff. No exceptions will be made.
What community organizations exist to help with the adoption of cats and
kittens?
Adopt-a-Pet (716)937-9292
Buffalo Humane (716) 862-9183, (www.buffalohumane.org)
HEART: (716) 821-1915, (www.heartforanimals.org)
Niagara Feline Friends (716) 754-2050, (www.niagarafelinefriends.homestead.
com)
Ten Lives Club: (716) 646-5577, (www.tenlivesclub.com/Home.asp)
Second Chance: (716) 652-6051, (www.secondchanceshelteringnetwork.com/Home.
asp)
SPCA Serving Erie County (716) 875-7360, (716) 549-5300, (www.yourspca.
org/site/PageServer)
Also see www.aawny.org
Frequently Asked Questions (Reference: Alley Cat Allies)
Q: I discovered some cats outside. Who can I call to come and get them?
A: The first step is to find out if the cats are tame or wild. If the cats are tame,
they may belong to people living in the neighborhood. Observe the cats to
determine if this is so. Post "lost cat" flyers throughout the neighborhood. If the
cats are feral (wild), animal control or a municipal shelter is the only agency that
may come and get them, and the cats will most likely be euthanized. Fortunately,
there is a solution. Feral cats live in colonies and congregate near food sources.
Feral cat colonies can be managed with a non lethal method called
Trap/Neuter/Vaccinate/Return (TNVR), in which cats are humanely (and
painlessly) trapped, spayed/neutered and returned to their colony site where
volunteer caretakers provide them with food, water, and shelter. TNVR is the
only chance feral cats have of living safe, healthy lives, while ceasing their
reproduction. But TNVR is a hands-on project requiring commitment from one or
more volunteer caretakers, often with the help of feral cat advocates living in the
area.
Q: What is the difference between a stray cat and a feral cat?
A: A stray cat is a domestic cat that has been abandoned or has strayed from
home and become lost. A stray cat may be skittish in you presence, but because
stray cats once knew human companionship, they can usually become re-socialized
and re-homed. A feral cat is born and raised outside with little or no human
contact or is a stray that has lived outside long enough to revert to a wild state.
Adult feral cats usually cannot be tamed and are most content living outside. Feral
kittens up to 8-10 weeks of age, on the other hand, can often be tamed and placed
in homes.
Q: How can I tell if the cats are stray or feral?
A: Observe the cat's appearance and behavior. A stray cat is likely to approach
you, although usually not close enough for you to touch him. If you put food down, a
stray cat will likely start to eat right away. A stray cat is often vocal, sometimes
talking insistently, and may look disheveled, as if unused to dealing with conditions
on the street. A stray cat may be seen at all hours of the day. A feral cat is silent,
will not approach humans, and generally will be seen only from dusk to dawn, unless
extraordinarily hungry and foraging for food. A feral cat has adapted to conditions
and is likely to appear well groomed. If you put food down for a feral cat, he will
wait until you move away from the area before approaching the food.
Q: My neighbors (or the landlord) are complaining about the cats. What can
I do?
A: Ask what their specific complaints are and try to resolve them. Making sure
that all the cats have been sterilized will reduce or eliminate most objectionable
situations and behaviors. If the cats are soiling the neighbors' gardens, place
(regularly cleaned) sand or litter boxes at the colony site. Consider building a cat
fence that will keep the cats in (or out of) a specific area. If neighbors voice
health concerns, make sure that the cats are up to date with their vaccinations
and share their medical records with your neighbors. If the issues cannot be
resolved and your neighbors insist that the cats be removed, assure the neighbors
that, although removing the cats will not guarantee that new cats won't move right
in, you will begin searching for relocation sites, and do it.
Q: I don't want anything to happen to the cats, but they can't stay here.
Where can they go?
A: Why must the cats be moved? With very few exceptions, feral cats should
remain at their original colony site. Cats create strong bonds with their territory
and with one another. If you relocate them, they may become disoriented and
separated from one another. If you relocate the existing colony, new cats are
likely to move into the area and form a new colony. However, relocating feral cats
is not impossible. In fact, in some locations that are not safe, relocating the colony
is the best option for the cats. It will only work, however, if you follow strict
guidelines.
Q: I have been feeding cats for a while and they are reproducing. I can't
feed them all. What should I do?
A: As soon as possible, you must trap the cats using humane box traps and have
them spayed or neutered. (Trapping feral cats sounds complicated: in reality it is a
simple and rewarding process and it does not hurt the cats). When the cats have
been spayed/neutered and vaccinated, return them to the place where they were
trapped. Kittens up to 8-10 weeks old can often be tamed, sterilized and adopted
out. You and other volunteers must then provide ongoing food, shelter and care to
keep the feral cats healthy and safe.
Q: I can't touch the cats, so how can I get them to the vet for
spaying/neutering?
A: DO NOT TRY TO TOUCH THEM! And never attempt to catch a cat by throwing
a towel or blanket over the cat. Never use tranquilizers on outdoor cats. The risk
of injury (to you and the cat) is too great. As soon as possible, trap the cats using
humane box traps and have them spayed/neutered. Don't wait, thinking the cats
will get used to human presence and become tame enough to catch. They won't and
while you wait, several litters of kittens will be born.
Q: I've been told that cats should be indoors only, so isn't it cruel to leave
them outside?
A: The safest place for your tame companion cat may be indoors, but the best and
usually the only environment suitable for feral (wild) cats is outside. Feral cats
who have undergone TNVR and live in managed colonies can live healthy, content
and long lives; often as long as indoor cats. Finding homes for feral cats is not a
realistic option. Humane societies, animal shelters and other animal organizations
rarely accept them for adoption because they cannot be touched or held by people
and are thus "unadoptable". Shelters usually euthanize feral cats without a holding
period and animal sanctuaries rarely have room for them.
Q: Why should the veterinarian eartip?
A: Ear tipping identifies feral cats who have been sterilized and vaccinated. Ear
tipping is completely safe and it is painless because the cat is under general
anesthesia when the procedure is performed. Ear tipping provides immediate
visual identification that alerts animal control that a cat is part of a managed
colony. It also helps colony caretakers track, which cats, have been trapped and
vetted and identify newcomers who have not.
Q: I took my feral cats to the veterinarian for sterilization. How do I know
they care recovering properly?
A: After surgery, cats need at least an overnight stay in the clinic or in a home
where they can be regularly monitored. Do not reach into a trap that contains a
cat. Keep the cats in their traps with clean newspaper underneath. Canned cat
food, mixed with water, should be rolled into a ball and dropped into the trap.
Cats can be released the day following surgery as long as they are alert,
responsive, and are showing no signs of illness or surgical complications (bleeding,
vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, lethargy). Immediately call a veterinarian
should any of these signs occur.
Q: I've been trying to trap a particular cat, but the cat refuses to go into
the trap. What should I do?
A: If after repeated attempts a cat will not go into a trap, take a break for a
week or two (except in the case of an injured cat). A short break can reduce a
cat's fear of the trap. During this time, feed that cat and others in unset traps
for several days. Place the food first by the entrance of the trap, then inside,
then over a period of days gradually move it closer to the back. Feed in the same
place and time as always. The cat will see other cats eating inside the traps and
will likely try it too. When you are ready to trap again, withhold food for 24 hours
up to three days (for a very "trap savvy" cat). Never withhold water. You can make
a trap more enticing by dabbing bits of jarred baby food (not containing onions) or
catnip on the outside of the trap. Also, cats love the smell of a pungent herb called
valerian. Make a strong smelling broth by boiling valerian in water, then douse the
trap with it. If you are still unable to trap a cat or if the cat has learned how to
steal bait without springing the trap, consider using a drop-trap instead.
Q: Can I use kittens to catch the mother?
A: Yes, but DO NOT put kittens in the trap set for the mother! If the mother
becomes frightened in the trap, she could seriously injure the kittens. Instead
put the kittens in a closed trap or a small cat carrier. Set the trap exactly where
you found the kittens. Place another trap directly in front of the carrier, like a
train. Cover both traps with a sheet EXCEPT for the trap door of the empty trap.
The mother will hear and/or smell her kittens and, looking through the door of the
set trap, see her kittens at the end of the "tunnel" in the other trap. Thinking she
can get to her kittens this way, she may enter and spring the set trap. If the
kittens make no noise, place a tape recording of kittens mewing in the trap with
them.
Q: There's a pregnant feral cat outside. What should I do?
A: Trap the queen and bring her indoors to have the kittens. The kittens are more
likely to survive if born indoors although the mother may experience stress from
being confined and become less able to care for her kittens. To reduce her
stress, provide a warm, secluded, quiet area for her to give birth and nurse her
litter. Provide a warm, outdoor cat shelter and the queen may choose to have her
kittens in it. There is no guarantee. Trap the queen and have you vet determine
how far along she is and whether or not to abort the unborn kittens. The mother
cat would be spayed at the same time. Some vets will not perform abortions if the
mother is close to giving birth, so you should consult your vet and consider your
own feelings about this possibility ahead of time. Please be aware that all of the
kittens will need to be spayed/neutered prior to their adoption.
Q: A female cat had kittens outside. What should I do?
A: You should trap and sterilize the whole family. How you proceed depends on the
age of the kittens. Don't trap a mother who is nursing her kittens unless you can
catch the kittens too. Tiny kittens cannot survive away from their mothers for
long. If the kittens are newly weaned (usually 4-6 weeks), ask if your veterinarian
can perform surgery and return the mother within 48 hours. Even though eating
solid food, very young kittens are unlikely to survive without their mother for
body heat and protection. (If your vet cannot meet this time frame, wait until the
kittens are older to trap the mother). Try to trap the kittens no later than 8-10
weeks of age. The sooner they have human contact, the easier it will be to
socialize them. At 12 weeks and older, kittens can be sterilized, vaccinated and
returned to the location where they were living outside.
Q: just found a newborn kitten and the mother is nowhere to be seen. What
should I do?
A: Do not be too hasty to move a kitten. The mother may be in the process of
moving her litter to a safer area. Watch closely for several hours, but no more
than a day, to see if the mother returns. If not and the mother has abandoned one
or more very young (neonatal) kittens, their only chance to survive is bottle-
feeding. This is an intensive process not unlike caring for newborn human babies.
There is a lot to learn, but once you know it, the process will become second
nature.
Q: Do feral cats need shelter?
A: Yes, like almost all-living creatures, feral cats need warm, dry shelter to
protect them from extreme temperatures and wet weather. You can build a
shelter from plans or use a strong box or crate insulated with waterproof
material thick enough to keep out wind and cold. A large shelter can provide a
haven for more than one cat.
Thanks to Alley Cat Allies
better understanding of how we can help you and feral cats.
Can I make an appointment for my pet or personal cat to be
spayed/neutered through
Feral Cat FOCUS?
No, this program is only for feral, free roaming, or barn cats. Pet or personal cats
or stray cats that have been living in your house do not qualify. There are other
community resources for these cats. You can call your local veterinary office or
Operation PETS: The Spay/Neuter Clinic of WNY (716)783-8998 for an
appointment to have the cat examined and spayed/neutered. You must qualify as
low income to have the cat spayed/neutered at Operation PETS.
Can you come out and trap the cats that are on my property?
loan humane traps and arrange for veterinarians to spay/neuter feral cats. We do
not trap feral cats nor are we an animal shelter or rescue organization.
Can I just bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic without an appointment?
No. An appointment must be made at a spay/neuter clinic prior to the cat arriving
for surgery.
Can I bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic in a kennel or a crate instead
of a humane trap?
Absolutely NOT! All free roaming cats presented to a spay/neuter clinic MUST
arrive in a properly secured humane trap – this is for the safety of the caregiver
and the staff. No exceptions will be made.
What community organizations exist to help with the adoption of cats and
kittens?
Adopt-a-Pet (716)937-9292
Buffalo Humane (716) 862-9183, (www.buffalohumane.org)
HEART: (716) 821-1915, (www.heartforanimals.org)
Niagara Feline Friends (716) 754-2050, (www.niagarafelinefriends.homestead.
com)
Ten Lives Club: (716) 646-5577, (www.tenlivesclub.com/Home.asp)
Second Chance: (716) 652-6051, (www.secondchanceshelteringnetwork.com/Home.
asp)
SPCA Serving Erie County (716) 875-7360, (716) 549-5300, (www.yourspca.
org/site/PageServer)
Also see www.aawny.org
Frequently Asked Questions (Reference: Alley Cat Allies)
Q: I discovered some cats outside. Who can I call to come and get them?
A: The first step is to find out if the cats are tame or wild. If the cats are tame,
they may belong to people living in the neighborhood. Observe the cats to
determine if this is so. Post "lost cat" flyers throughout the neighborhood. If the
cats are feral (wild), animal control or a municipal shelter is the only agency that
may come and get them, and the cats will most likely be euthanized. Fortunately,
there is a solution. Feral cats live in colonies and congregate near food sources.
Feral cat colonies can be managed with a non lethal method called
Trap/Neuter/Vaccinate/Return (TNVR), in which cats are humanely (and
painlessly) trapped, spayed/neutered and returned to their colony site where
volunteer caretakers provide them with food, water, and shelter. TNVR is the
only chance feral cats have of living safe, healthy lives, while ceasing their
reproduction. But TNVR is a hands-on project requiring commitment from one or
more volunteer caretakers, often with the help of feral cat advocates living in the
area.
Q: What is the difference between a stray cat and a feral cat?
A: A stray cat is a domestic cat that has been abandoned or has strayed from
home and become lost. A stray cat may be skittish in you presence, but because
stray cats once knew human companionship, they can usually become re-socialized
and re-homed. A feral cat is born and raised outside with little or no human
contact or is a stray that has lived outside long enough to revert to a wild state.
Adult feral cats usually cannot be tamed and are most content living outside. Feral
kittens up to 8-10 weeks of age, on the other hand, can often be tamed and placed
in homes.
Q: How can I tell if the cats are stray or feral?
A: Observe the cat's appearance and behavior. A stray cat is likely to approach
you, although usually not close enough for you to touch him. If you put food down, a
stray cat will likely start to eat right away. A stray cat is often vocal, sometimes
talking insistently, and may look disheveled, as if unused to dealing with conditions
on the street. A stray cat may be seen at all hours of the day. A feral cat is silent,
will not approach humans, and generally will be seen only from dusk to dawn, unless
extraordinarily hungry and foraging for food. A feral cat has adapted to conditions
and is likely to appear well groomed. If you put food down for a feral cat, he will
wait until you move away from the area before approaching the food.
Q: My neighbors (or the landlord) are complaining about the cats. What can
I do?
A: Ask what their specific complaints are and try to resolve them. Making sure
that all the cats have been sterilized will reduce or eliminate most objectionable
situations and behaviors. If the cats are soiling the neighbors' gardens, place
(regularly cleaned) sand or litter boxes at the colony site. Consider building a cat
fence that will keep the cats in (or out of) a specific area. If neighbors voice
health concerns, make sure that the cats are up to date with their vaccinations
and share their medical records with your neighbors. If the issues cannot be
resolved and your neighbors insist that the cats be removed, assure the neighbors
that, although removing the cats will not guarantee that new cats won't move right
in, you will begin searching for relocation sites, and do it.
Q: I don't want anything to happen to the cats, but they can't stay here.
Where can they go?
A: Why must the cats be moved? With very few exceptions, feral cats should
remain at their original colony site. Cats create strong bonds with their territory
and with one another. If you relocate them, they may become disoriented and
separated from one another. If you relocate the existing colony, new cats are
likely to move into the area and form a new colony. However, relocating feral cats
is not impossible. In fact, in some locations that are not safe, relocating the colony
is the best option for the cats. It will only work, however, if you follow strict
guidelines.
Q: I have been feeding cats for a while and they are reproducing. I can't
feed them all. What should I do?
A: As soon as possible, you must trap the cats using humane box traps and have
them spayed or neutered. (Trapping feral cats sounds complicated: in reality it is a
simple and rewarding process and it does not hurt the cats). When the cats have
been spayed/neutered and vaccinated, return them to the place where they were
trapped. Kittens up to 8-10 weeks old can often be tamed, sterilized and adopted
out. You and other volunteers must then provide ongoing food, shelter and care to
keep the feral cats healthy and safe.
Q: I can't touch the cats, so how can I get them to the vet for
spaying/neutering?
A: DO NOT TRY TO TOUCH THEM! And never attempt to catch a cat by throwing
a towel or blanket over the cat. Never use tranquilizers on outdoor cats. The risk
of injury (to you and the cat) is too great. As soon as possible, trap the cats using
humane box traps and have them spayed/neutered. Don't wait, thinking the cats
will get used to human presence and become tame enough to catch. They won't and
while you wait, several litters of kittens will be born.
Q: I've been told that cats should be indoors only, so isn't it cruel to leave
them outside?
A: The safest place for your tame companion cat may be indoors, but the best and
usually the only environment suitable for feral (wild) cats is outside. Feral cats
who have undergone TNVR and live in managed colonies can live healthy, content
and long lives; often as long as indoor cats. Finding homes for feral cats is not a
realistic option. Humane societies, animal shelters and other animal organizations
rarely accept them for adoption because they cannot be touched or held by people
and are thus "unadoptable". Shelters usually euthanize feral cats without a holding
period and animal sanctuaries rarely have room for them.
Q: Why should the veterinarian eartip?
A: Ear tipping identifies feral cats who have been sterilized and vaccinated. Ear
tipping is completely safe and it is painless because the cat is under general
anesthesia when the procedure is performed. Ear tipping provides immediate
visual identification that alerts animal control that a cat is part of a managed
colony. It also helps colony caretakers track, which cats, have been trapped and
vetted and identify newcomers who have not.
Q: I took my feral cats to the veterinarian for sterilization. How do I know
they care recovering properly?
A: After surgery, cats need at least an overnight stay in the clinic or in a home
where they can be regularly monitored. Do not reach into a trap that contains a
cat. Keep the cats in their traps with clean newspaper underneath. Canned cat
food, mixed with water, should be rolled into a ball and dropped into the trap.
Cats can be released the day following surgery as long as they are alert,
responsive, and are showing no signs of illness or surgical complications (bleeding,
vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, lethargy). Immediately call a veterinarian
should any of these signs occur.
Q: I've been trying to trap a particular cat, but the cat refuses to go into
the trap. What should I do?
A: If after repeated attempts a cat will not go into a trap, take a break for a
week or two (except in the case of an injured cat). A short break can reduce a
cat's fear of the trap. During this time, feed that cat and others in unset traps
for several days. Place the food first by the entrance of the trap, then inside,
then over a period of days gradually move it closer to the back. Feed in the same
place and time as always. The cat will see other cats eating inside the traps and
will likely try it too. When you are ready to trap again, withhold food for 24 hours
up to three days (for a very "trap savvy" cat). Never withhold water. You can make
a trap more enticing by dabbing bits of jarred baby food (not containing onions) or
catnip on the outside of the trap. Also, cats love the smell of a pungent herb called
valerian. Make a strong smelling broth by boiling valerian in water, then douse the
trap with it. If you are still unable to trap a cat or if the cat has learned how to
steal bait without springing the trap, consider using a drop-trap instead.
Q: Can I use kittens to catch the mother?
A: Yes, but DO NOT put kittens in the trap set for the mother! If the mother
becomes frightened in the trap, she could seriously injure the kittens. Instead
put the kittens in a closed trap or a small cat carrier. Set the trap exactly where
you found the kittens. Place another trap directly in front of the carrier, like a
train. Cover both traps with a sheet EXCEPT for the trap door of the empty trap.
The mother will hear and/or smell her kittens and, looking through the door of the
set trap, see her kittens at the end of the "tunnel" in the other trap. Thinking she
can get to her kittens this way, she may enter and spring the set trap. If the
kittens make no noise, place a tape recording of kittens mewing in the trap with
them.
Q: There's a pregnant feral cat outside. What should I do?
A: Trap the queen and bring her indoors to have the kittens. The kittens are more
likely to survive if born indoors although the mother may experience stress from
being confined and become less able to care for her kittens. To reduce her
stress, provide a warm, secluded, quiet area for her to give birth and nurse her
litter. Provide a warm, outdoor cat shelter and the queen may choose to have her
kittens in it. There is no guarantee. Trap the queen and have you vet determine
how far along she is and whether or not to abort the unborn kittens. The mother
cat would be spayed at the same time. Some vets will not perform abortions if the
mother is close to giving birth, so you should consult your vet and consider your
own feelings about this possibility ahead of time. Please be aware that all of the
kittens will need to be spayed/neutered prior to their adoption.
Q: A female cat had kittens outside. What should I do?
A: You should trap and sterilize the whole family. How you proceed depends on the
age of the kittens. Don't trap a mother who is nursing her kittens unless you can
catch the kittens too. Tiny kittens cannot survive away from their mothers for
long. If the kittens are newly weaned (usually 4-6 weeks), ask if your veterinarian
can perform surgery and return the mother within 48 hours. Even though eating
solid food, very young kittens are unlikely to survive without their mother for
body heat and protection. (If your vet cannot meet this time frame, wait until the
kittens are older to trap the mother). Try to trap the kittens no later than 8-10
weeks of age. The sooner they have human contact, the easier it will be to
socialize them. At 12 weeks and older, kittens can be sterilized, vaccinated and
returned to the location where they were living outside.
Q: just found a newborn kitten and the mother is nowhere to be seen. What
should I do?
A: Do not be too hasty to move a kitten. The mother may be in the process of
moving her litter to a safer area. Watch closely for several hours, but no more
than a day, to see if the mother returns. If not and the mother has abandoned one
or more very young (neonatal) kittens, their only chance to survive is bottle-
feeding. This is an intensive process not unlike caring for newborn human babies.
There is a lot to learn, but once you know it, the process will become second
nature.
Q: Do feral cats need shelter?
A: Yes, like almost all-living creatures, feral cats need warm, dry shelter to
protect them from extreme temperatures and wet weather. You can build a
shelter from plans or use a strong box or crate insulated with waterproof
material thick enough to keep out wind and cold. A large shelter can provide a
haven for more than one cat.
Thanks to Alley Cat Allies