| Founded in 2003, Feral Cat FOCUS is a volunteer organization that provides fundamental services for feral cats in Western New York. |
| PO Box 404, East Aurora, NY 14052 1-888-902-9717 (toll free), www.feralcatfocus.org |
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It is important to know exactly what Feral Cat FOCUS is, and what we are not. So we
have included this section of frequently asked questions so that you can gain a better
understanding of how we can help you and feral cats.
Can I make an appointment for my pet or personal cat to be spayed/neutered
through
Feral Cat FOCUS?
No, this program is only for feral, free roaming, or barn cats. Pet or personal cats or
stray cats that have been living in your house do not qualify. There are other community
resources for these cats. You can call your local veterinary office or Operation
PETS: The Spay/Neuter Clinic of WNY (716)783-8998 for an appointment to have
the cat examined and spayed/neutered. You must qualify as low income to have the cat
spayed/neutered at Operation PETS.
Can you come out and trap the cats that are on my property?
loan humane traps and arrange for veterinarians to spay/neuter feral cats. We do not
trap feral cats nor are we an animal shelter or rescue organization.
Can I just bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic without an appointment?
No. An appointment must be made at a spay/neuter clinic prior to the cat arriving for
surgery.
Can I bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic in a kennel or a crate instead of a
humane trap?
Absolutely NOT! All free roaming cats presented to a spay/neuter clinic MUST arrive
in a properly secured humane trap – this is for the safety of the caregiver and the
staff. No exceptions will be made.
What community organizations exist to help with the adoption of cats and kittens?
Adopt-a-Pet (716)937-9292
Buffalo Humane (716) 862-9183, (www.buffalohumane.org)
HEART: (716) 821-1915, (www.heartforanimals.org)
Niagara Feline Friends (716) 754-2050, (www.niagarafelinefriends.homestead.com)
Ten Lives Club: (716) 646-5577, (www.tenlivesclub.com/Home.asp)
Second Chance: (716) 652-6051, (www.secondchanceshelteringnetwork.com/Home.asp)
SPCA Serving Erie County (716) 875-7360, (716) 549-5300, (www.yourspca.
org/site/PageServer)
Also see www.aawny.org
Frequently Asked Questions (Reference: Alley Cat Allies)
Q: I discovered some cats outside. Who can I call to come and get them?
A: The first step is to find out if the cats are tame or wild. If the cats are tame, they
may belong to people living in the neighborhood. Observe the cats to determine if this is
so. Post "lost cat" flyers throughout the neighborhood. If the cats are feral (wild),
animal control or a municipal shelter is the only agency that may come and get them, and
the cats will most likely be euthanized. Fortunately, there is a solution. Feral cats live
in colonies and congregate near food sources. Feral cat colonies can be managed with a
non lethal method called Trap/Neuter/Vaccinate/Return (TNVR), in which cats are
humanely (and painlessly) trapped, spayed/neutered and returned to their colony site
where volunteer caretakers provide them with food, water, and shelter. TNVR is the
only chance feral cats have of living safe, healthy lives, while ceasing their reproduction.
But TNVR is a hands-on project requiring commitment from one or more volunteer
caretakers, often with the help of feral cat advocates living in the area.
Q: What is the difference between a stray cat and a feral cat?
A: A stray cat is a domestic cat that has been abandoned or has strayed from home and
become lost. A stray cat may be skittish in you presence, but because stray cats once
knew human companionship, they can usually become re-socialized and re-homed. A feral
cat is born and raised outside with little or no human contact or is a stray that has lived
outside long enough to revert to a wild state. Adult feral cats usually cannot be tamed
and are most content living outside. Feral kittens up to 8-10 weeks of age, on the other
hand, can often be tamed and placed in homes.
Q: How can I tell if the cats are stray or feral?
A: Observe the cat's appearance and behavior. A stray cat is likely to approach you,
although usually not close enough for you to touch him. If you put food down, a stray cat
will likely start to eat right away. A stray cat is often vocal, sometimes talking
insistently, and may look disheveled, as if unused to dealing with conditions on the
street. A stray cat may be seen at all hours of the day. A feral cat is silent, will not
approach humans, and generally will be seen only from dusk to dawn, unless
extraordinarily hungry and foraging for food. A feral cat has adapted to conditions and
is likely to appear well groomed. If you put food down for a feral cat, he will wait until
you move away from the area before approaching the food.
Q: My neighbors (or the landlord) are complaining about the cats. What can I do?
A: Ask what their specific complaints are and try to resolve them. Making sure that all
the cats have been sterilized will reduce or eliminate most objectionable situations and
behaviors. If the cats are soiling the neighbors' gardens, place (regularly cleaned) sand
or litter boxes at the colony site. Consider building a cat fence that will keep the cats
in (or out of) a specific area. If neighbors voice health concerns, make sure that the
cats are up to date with their vaccinations and share their medical records with your
neighbors. If the issues cannot be resolved and your neighbors insist that the cats be
removed, assure the neighbors that, although removing the cats will not guarantee that
new cats won't move right in, you will begin searching for relocation sites, and do it.
Q: I don't want anything to happen to the cats, but they can't stay here.
Where can they go?
A: Why must the cats be moved? With very few exceptions, feral cats should remain at
their original colony site. Cats create strong bonds with their territory and with one
another. If you relocate them, they may become disoriented and separated from one
another. If you relocate the existing colony, new cats are likely to move into the area
and form a new colony. However, relocating feral cats is not impossible. In fact, in some
locations that are not safe, relocating the colony is the best option for the cats. It will
only work, however, if you follow strict guidelines.
Q: I have been feeding cats for a while and they are reproducing. I can't feed
them all. What should I do?
A: As soon as possible, you must trap the cats using humane box traps and have them
spayed or neutered. (Trapping feral cats sounds complicated: in reality it is a simple and
rewarding process and it does not hurt the cats). When the cats have been
spayed/neutered and vaccinated, return them to the place where they were trapped.
Kittens up to 8-10 weeks old can often be tamed, sterilized and adopted out. You and
other volunteers must then provide ongoing food, shelter and care to keep the feral
cats healthy and safe.
Q: I can't touch the cats, so how can I get them to the vet for
spaying/neutering?
A: DO NOT TRY TO TOUCH THEM! And never attempt to catch a cat by throwing a
towel or blanket over the cat. Never use tranquilizers on outdoor cats. The risk of
injury (to you and the cat) is too great. As soon as possible, trap the cats using humane
box traps and have them spayed/neutered. Don't wait, thinking the cats will get used to
human presence and become tame enough to catch. They won't and while you wait,
several litters of kittens will be born.
Q: I've been told that cats should be indoors only, so isn't it cruel to leave them
outside?
A: The safest place for your tame companion cat may be indoors, but the best and
usually the only environment suitable for feral (wild) cats is outside. Feral cats who
have undergone TNVR and live in managed colonies can live healthy, content and long
lives; often as long as indoor cats. Finding homes for feral cats is not a realistic option.
Humane societies, animal shelters and other animal organizations rarely accept them
for adoption because they cannot be touched or held by people and are thus
"unadoptable". Shelters usually euthanize feral cats without a holding period and animal
sanctuaries rarely have room for them.
Q: Why should the veterinarian eartip?
A: Ear tipping identifies feral cats who have been sterilized and vaccinated. Ear tipping
is completely safe and it is painless because the cat is under general anesthesia when
the procedure is performed. Ear tipping provides immediate visual identification that
alerts animal control that a cat is part of a managed colony. It also helps colony
caretakers track, which cats, have been trapped and vetted and identify newcomers
who have not.
Q: I took my feral cats to the veterinarian for sterilization. How do I know they
care recovering properly?
A: After surgery, cats need at least an overnight stay in the clinic or in a home where
they can be regularly monitored. Do not reach into a trap that contains a cat. Keep the
cats in their traps with clean newspaper underneath. Canned cat food, mixed with
water, should be rolled into a ball and dropped into the trap. Cats can be released the
day following surgery as long as they are alert, responsive, and are showing no signs of
illness or surgical complications (bleeding, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing,
lethargy). Immediately call a veterinarian should any of these signs occur.
Q: I've been trying to trap a particular cat, but the cat refuses to go into the
trap. What should I do?
A: If after repeated attempts a cat will not go into a trap, take a break for a week or
two (except in the case of an injured cat). A short break can reduce a cat's fear of the
trap. During this time, feed that cat and others in unset traps for several days. Place
the food first by the entrance of the trap, then inside, then over a period of days
gradually move it closer to the back. Feed in the same place and time as always. The cat
will see other cats eating inside the traps and will likely try it too. When you are ready
to trap again, withhold food for 24 hours up to three days (for a very "trap savvy" cat).
Never withhold water. You can make a trap more enticing by dabbing bits of jarred baby
food (not containing onions) or catnip on the outside of the trap. Also, cats love the
smell of a pungent herb called valerian. Make a strong smelling broth by boiling valerian
in water, then douse the trap with it. If you are still unable to trap a cat or if the cat
has learned how to steal bait without springing the trap, consider using a drop-trap
instead.
Q: Can I use kittens to catch the mother?
A: Yes, but DO NOT put kittens in the trap set for the mother! If the mother becomes
frightened in the trap, she could seriously injure the kittens. Instead put the kittens in
a closed trap or a small cat carrier. Set the trap exactly where you found the kittens.
Place another trap directly in front of the carrier, like a train. Cover both traps with a
sheet EXCEPT for the trap door of the empty trap. The mother will hear and/or smell
her kittens and, looking through the door of the set trap, see her kittens at the end of
the "tunnel" in the other trap. Thinking she can get to her kittens this way, she may
enter and spring the set trap. If the kittens make no noise, place a tape recording of
kittens mewing in the trap with them.
Q: There's a pregnant feral cat outside. What should I do?
A: Trap the queen and bring her indoors to have the kittens. The kittens are more likely
to survive if born indoors although the mother may experience stress from being
confined and become less able to care for her kittens. To reduce her stress, provide a
warm, secluded, quiet area for her to give birth and nurse her litter. Provide a warm,
outdoor cat shelter and the queen may choose to have her kittens in it. There is no
guarantee. Trap the queen and have you vet determine how far along she is and whether
or not to abort the unborn kittens. The mother cat would be spayed at the same time.
Some vets will not perform abortions if the mother is close to giving birth, so you
should consult your vet and consider your own feelings about this possibility ahead of
time. Please be aware that all of the kittens will need to be spayed/neutered prior to
their adoption.
Q: A female cat had kittens outside. What should I do?
A: You should trap and sterilize the whole family. How you proceed depends on the age
of the kittens. Don't trap a mother who is nursing her kittens unless you can catch the
kittens too. Tiny kittens cannot survive away from their mothers for long. If the
kittens are newly weaned (usually 4-6 weeks), ask if your veterinarian can perform
surgery and return the mother within 48 hours. Even though eating solid food, very
young kittens are unlikely to survive without their mother for body heat and protection.
(If your vet cannot meet this time frame, wait until the kittens are older to trap the
mother). Try to trap the kittens no later than 8-10 weeks of age. The sooner they have
human contact, the easier it will be to socialize them. At 12 weeks and older, kittens
can be sterilized, vaccinated and returned to the location where they were living
outside.
Q: just found a newborn kitten and the mother is nowhere to be seen. What
should I do?
A: Do not be too hasty to move a kitten. The mother may be in the process of moving
her litter to a safer area. Watch closely for several hours, but no more than a day, to
see if the mother returns. If not and the mother has abandoned one or more very young
(neonatal) kittens, their only chance to survive is bottle-feeding. This is an intensive
process not unlike caring for newborn human babies. There is a lot to learn, but once you
know it, the process will become second nature.
Q: Do feral cats need shelter?
A: Yes, like almost all-living creatures, feral cats need warm, dry shelter to protect
them from extreme temperatures and wet weather. You can build a shelter from plans
or use a strong box or crate insulated with waterproof material thick enough to keep
out wind and cold. A large shelter can provide a haven for more than one cat.
Thanks to Alley Cat Allies
have included this section of frequently asked questions so that you can gain a better
understanding of how we can help you and feral cats.
Can I make an appointment for my pet or personal cat to be spayed/neutered
through
Feral Cat FOCUS?
No, this program is only for feral, free roaming, or barn cats. Pet or personal cats or
stray cats that have been living in your house do not qualify. There are other community
resources for these cats. You can call your local veterinary office or Operation
PETS: The Spay/Neuter Clinic of WNY (716)783-8998 for an appointment to have
the cat examined and spayed/neutered. You must qualify as low income to have the cat
spayed/neutered at Operation PETS.
Can you come out and trap the cats that are on my property?
loan humane traps and arrange for veterinarians to spay/neuter feral cats. We do not
trap feral cats nor are we an animal shelter or rescue organization.
Can I just bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic without an appointment?
No. An appointment must be made at a spay/neuter clinic prior to the cat arriving for
surgery.
Can I bring a feral cat to a spay/neuter clinic in a kennel or a crate instead of a
humane trap?
Absolutely NOT! All free roaming cats presented to a spay/neuter clinic MUST arrive
in a properly secured humane trap – this is for the safety of the caregiver and the
staff. No exceptions will be made.
What community organizations exist to help with the adoption of cats and kittens?
Adopt-a-Pet (716)937-9292
Buffalo Humane (716) 862-9183, (www.buffalohumane.org)
HEART: (716) 821-1915, (www.heartforanimals.org)
Niagara Feline Friends (716) 754-2050, (www.niagarafelinefriends.homestead.com)
Ten Lives Club: (716) 646-5577, (www.tenlivesclub.com/Home.asp)
Second Chance: (716) 652-6051, (www.secondchanceshelteringnetwork.com/Home.asp)
SPCA Serving Erie County (716) 875-7360, (716) 549-5300, (www.yourspca.
org/site/PageServer)
Also see www.aawny.org
Frequently Asked Questions (Reference: Alley Cat Allies)
Q: I discovered some cats outside. Who can I call to come and get them?
A: The first step is to find out if the cats are tame or wild. If the cats are tame, they
may belong to people living in the neighborhood. Observe the cats to determine if this is
so. Post "lost cat" flyers throughout the neighborhood. If the cats are feral (wild),
animal control or a municipal shelter is the only agency that may come and get them, and
the cats will most likely be euthanized. Fortunately, there is a solution. Feral cats live
in colonies and congregate near food sources. Feral cat colonies can be managed with a
non lethal method called Trap/Neuter/Vaccinate/Return (TNVR), in which cats are
humanely (and painlessly) trapped, spayed/neutered and returned to their colony site
where volunteer caretakers provide them with food, water, and shelter. TNVR is the
only chance feral cats have of living safe, healthy lives, while ceasing their reproduction.
But TNVR is a hands-on project requiring commitment from one or more volunteer
caretakers, often with the help of feral cat advocates living in the area.
Q: What is the difference between a stray cat and a feral cat?
A: A stray cat is a domestic cat that has been abandoned or has strayed from home and
become lost. A stray cat may be skittish in you presence, but because stray cats once
knew human companionship, they can usually become re-socialized and re-homed. A feral
cat is born and raised outside with little or no human contact or is a stray that has lived
outside long enough to revert to a wild state. Adult feral cats usually cannot be tamed
and are most content living outside. Feral kittens up to 8-10 weeks of age, on the other
hand, can often be tamed and placed in homes.
Q: How can I tell if the cats are stray or feral?
A: Observe the cat's appearance and behavior. A stray cat is likely to approach you,
although usually not close enough for you to touch him. If you put food down, a stray cat
will likely start to eat right away. A stray cat is often vocal, sometimes talking
insistently, and may look disheveled, as if unused to dealing with conditions on the
street. A stray cat may be seen at all hours of the day. A feral cat is silent, will not
approach humans, and generally will be seen only from dusk to dawn, unless
extraordinarily hungry and foraging for food. A feral cat has adapted to conditions and
is likely to appear well groomed. If you put food down for a feral cat, he will wait until
you move away from the area before approaching the food.
Q: My neighbors (or the landlord) are complaining about the cats. What can I do?
A: Ask what their specific complaints are and try to resolve them. Making sure that all
the cats have been sterilized will reduce or eliminate most objectionable situations and
behaviors. If the cats are soiling the neighbors' gardens, place (regularly cleaned) sand
or litter boxes at the colony site. Consider building a cat fence that will keep the cats
in (or out of) a specific area. If neighbors voice health concerns, make sure that the
cats are up to date with their vaccinations and share their medical records with your
neighbors. If the issues cannot be resolved and your neighbors insist that the cats be
removed, assure the neighbors that, although removing the cats will not guarantee that
new cats won't move right in, you will begin searching for relocation sites, and do it.
Q: I don't want anything to happen to the cats, but they can't stay here.
Where can they go?
A: Why must the cats be moved? With very few exceptions, feral cats should remain at
their original colony site. Cats create strong bonds with their territory and with one
another. If you relocate them, they may become disoriented and separated from one
another. If you relocate the existing colony, new cats are likely to move into the area
and form a new colony. However, relocating feral cats is not impossible. In fact, in some
locations that are not safe, relocating the colony is the best option for the cats. It will
only work, however, if you follow strict guidelines.
Q: I have been feeding cats for a while and they are reproducing. I can't feed
them all. What should I do?
A: As soon as possible, you must trap the cats using humane box traps and have them
spayed or neutered. (Trapping feral cats sounds complicated: in reality it is a simple and
rewarding process and it does not hurt the cats). When the cats have been
spayed/neutered and vaccinated, return them to the place where they were trapped.
Kittens up to 8-10 weeks old can often be tamed, sterilized and adopted out. You and
other volunteers must then provide ongoing food, shelter and care to keep the feral
cats healthy and safe.
Q: I can't touch the cats, so how can I get them to the vet for
spaying/neutering?
A: DO NOT TRY TO TOUCH THEM! And never attempt to catch a cat by throwing a
towel or blanket over the cat. Never use tranquilizers on outdoor cats. The risk of
injury (to you and the cat) is too great. As soon as possible, trap the cats using humane
box traps and have them spayed/neutered. Don't wait, thinking the cats will get used to
human presence and become tame enough to catch. They won't and while you wait,
several litters of kittens will be born.
Q: I've been told that cats should be indoors only, so isn't it cruel to leave them
outside?
A: The safest place for your tame companion cat may be indoors, but the best and
usually the only environment suitable for feral (wild) cats is outside. Feral cats who
have undergone TNVR and live in managed colonies can live healthy, content and long
lives; often as long as indoor cats. Finding homes for feral cats is not a realistic option.
Humane societies, animal shelters and other animal organizations rarely accept them
for adoption because they cannot be touched or held by people and are thus
"unadoptable". Shelters usually euthanize feral cats without a holding period and animal
sanctuaries rarely have room for them.
Q: Why should the veterinarian eartip?
A: Ear tipping identifies feral cats who have been sterilized and vaccinated. Ear tipping
is completely safe and it is painless because the cat is under general anesthesia when
the procedure is performed. Ear tipping provides immediate visual identification that
alerts animal control that a cat is part of a managed colony. It also helps colony
caretakers track, which cats, have been trapped and vetted and identify newcomers
who have not.
Q: I took my feral cats to the veterinarian for sterilization. How do I know they
care recovering properly?
A: After surgery, cats need at least an overnight stay in the clinic or in a home where
they can be regularly monitored. Do not reach into a trap that contains a cat. Keep the
cats in their traps with clean newspaper underneath. Canned cat food, mixed with
water, should be rolled into a ball and dropped into the trap. Cats can be released the
day following surgery as long as they are alert, responsive, and are showing no signs of
illness or surgical complications (bleeding, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing,
lethargy). Immediately call a veterinarian should any of these signs occur.
Q: I've been trying to trap a particular cat, but the cat refuses to go into the
trap. What should I do?
A: If after repeated attempts a cat will not go into a trap, take a break for a week or
two (except in the case of an injured cat). A short break can reduce a cat's fear of the
trap. During this time, feed that cat and others in unset traps for several days. Place
the food first by the entrance of the trap, then inside, then over a period of days
gradually move it closer to the back. Feed in the same place and time as always. The cat
will see other cats eating inside the traps and will likely try it too. When you are ready
to trap again, withhold food for 24 hours up to three days (for a very "trap savvy" cat).
Never withhold water. You can make a trap more enticing by dabbing bits of jarred baby
food (not containing onions) or catnip on the outside of the trap. Also, cats love the
smell of a pungent herb called valerian. Make a strong smelling broth by boiling valerian
in water, then douse the trap with it. If you are still unable to trap a cat or if the cat
has learned how to steal bait without springing the trap, consider using a drop-trap
instead.
Q: Can I use kittens to catch the mother?
A: Yes, but DO NOT put kittens in the trap set for the mother! If the mother becomes
frightened in the trap, she could seriously injure the kittens. Instead put the kittens in
a closed trap or a small cat carrier. Set the trap exactly where you found the kittens.
Place another trap directly in front of the carrier, like a train. Cover both traps with a
sheet EXCEPT for the trap door of the empty trap. The mother will hear and/or smell
her kittens and, looking through the door of the set trap, see her kittens at the end of
the "tunnel" in the other trap. Thinking she can get to her kittens this way, she may
enter and spring the set trap. If the kittens make no noise, place a tape recording of
kittens mewing in the trap with them.
Q: There's a pregnant feral cat outside. What should I do?
A: Trap the queen and bring her indoors to have the kittens. The kittens are more likely
to survive if born indoors although the mother may experience stress from being
confined and become less able to care for her kittens. To reduce her stress, provide a
warm, secluded, quiet area for her to give birth and nurse her litter. Provide a warm,
outdoor cat shelter and the queen may choose to have her kittens in it. There is no
guarantee. Trap the queen and have you vet determine how far along she is and whether
or not to abort the unborn kittens. The mother cat would be spayed at the same time.
Some vets will not perform abortions if the mother is close to giving birth, so you
should consult your vet and consider your own feelings about this possibility ahead of
time. Please be aware that all of the kittens will need to be spayed/neutered prior to
their adoption.
Q: A female cat had kittens outside. What should I do?
A: You should trap and sterilize the whole family. How you proceed depends on the age
of the kittens. Don't trap a mother who is nursing her kittens unless you can catch the
kittens too. Tiny kittens cannot survive away from their mothers for long. If the
kittens are newly weaned (usually 4-6 weeks), ask if your veterinarian can perform
surgery and return the mother within 48 hours. Even though eating solid food, very
young kittens are unlikely to survive without their mother for body heat and protection.
(If your vet cannot meet this time frame, wait until the kittens are older to trap the
mother). Try to trap the kittens no later than 8-10 weeks of age. The sooner they have
human contact, the easier it will be to socialize them. At 12 weeks and older, kittens
can be sterilized, vaccinated and returned to the location where they were living
outside.
Q: just found a newborn kitten and the mother is nowhere to be seen. What
should I do?
A: Do not be too hasty to move a kitten. The mother may be in the process of moving
her litter to a safer area. Watch closely for several hours, but no more than a day, to
see if the mother returns. If not and the mother has abandoned one or more very young
(neonatal) kittens, their only chance to survive is bottle-feeding. This is an intensive
process not unlike caring for newborn human babies. There is a lot to learn, but once you
know it, the process will become second nature.
Q: Do feral cats need shelter?
A: Yes, like almost all-living creatures, feral cats need warm, dry shelter to protect
them from extreme temperatures and wet weather. You can build a shelter from plans
or use a strong box or crate insulated with waterproof material thick enough to keep
out wind and cold. A large shelter can provide a haven for more than one cat.
Thanks to Alley Cat Allies